Unless you threw your phone in the Thames on Monday, and haven’t had a conversation with another human since, you probably know that this week was Haute Couture Week. The week when a collection of elite designers (who must meet stringent requirements to qualify, including creating bespoke pieces for private clients; operating an atelier employing at least 15 staff; and committing to show two collections a year of no less than 50 designs) flaunt their most rarefied pieces to a front row of celebrity royalty.
The 2023 edition kicked off with some good, old-fashioned controversy, as Schiaparelli sent models down the runway with (fake) animal heads affixed to their garments. The week also gave us upside-down gowns and umbrella hats; legacy looks and couture debuts; misty-eyed throwbacks and bold strides into the future. We loved (almost) every second of it.
If you missed any of the shows, fear not. We’ve compiled a list of our favourite looks of the week – the most haute of the couture, if you will. Take notes – you’ll more than likely see some of them again on red carpets over the next couple of months.
DIOR
Dior’s SS23 collection was inspired by Josephine Baker – the entertainer, French Resistance member and civil-rights activist who was also a close friend of Christian Dior. The pieces were restrained and ladylike, with more than a whiff of the Roaring Twenties in the appearance of fringed dresses and kiss curls. Cabaret also played a part – think satin leotards under diaphanous robes. Indeed, a lingerie-inspired bodysuit paired with layered pearls opened the collection, followed by a plethora of pintucked palazzo pants and pleated A-line cuts; evening wear consisted of brocade coats, beaded gowns and draped dresses. The set is also worth a mention – visual artist Mickalene Thomas created 13 giant artworks for the occasion, dedicated to inspirational Black and mixed-race women including Nina Simone, Dorothy Dandridge and Baker herself.
